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| Rasmancha |
Bishnupur, the town of the terracotta temples in West Bengal’s Bankura district, is well connected to Kolkata via several routes. The most popular one is the one via Arambagh, which we took on our way back. However, since we went there straight from Bolpur, we had to return to Burdwan and take the Bardhaman-Bankura Road.
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| Gumghar |
The distance between Kolkata and Bishnupur is quite similar to that between Kolkata and Bolpur. It should not take more than 3.5 hours by road, unless the road condition is very bad, which happens from time to time, especially during and after the monsoon.
Bardhaman-Bankura Road was simply beautiful. We hardly saw any traffic on the way, and the road passes through lush green fields and picturesque villages, which made the drive worth it.
The road via Arambagh is equally stunning because of a stretch of sal forests on the way, closer to Bishnupur, which is missing on the Bardhaman-Bankura Road. However, our return journey turned into quite an ordeal because of road maintenance work around Arambagh. Since that work has surely ended by now, that road is highly recommended.
If you are not familiar with the area, you can still drive to Bishnupur because the places are marked well on Google Maps. Using GPS, we had no trouble finding our way to the Jorbangla temple, one of the biggest draws of Bishnupur. However, we heard there that one has to collect an Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) ticket from Rasmancha, which is, again, one of the prime spots.
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| The arches of Rasmancha |
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| The Shyamrai temple |
Parking the car at Jorbangla, we walked to Rasmancha, thereby enjoying the feel of the town a bit. Treading on the characteristic red soil of Bankura (also found in Birbhum, and Purulia), we reached Rasmancha in about 10 minutes. The ticket is priced at a mere Rs 5, and is applicable for Rasmancha as well as the temples on the Jorbangla complex.
Rasmancha is perhaps the most iconic structure of Bishnupur. Otherwise bereft of too much ornamentation, the hallmark of this red-brick building is its perfect geometrical symmetry. Built on a raised platform, the square-shaped edifice is characterised by two consecutive layers of 10 arches each on every side so that it looks the same whichever way you look at it. The arches, guarding the very dark and inaccessible sanctum sanctorum, are topped by a pyramidal roof.
The Rasmancha, as the name suggests, is a ‘mancha’ (platform) for the ‘Raas’ festival of the Hindu Vaishnavite cult (worshippers of Lord Vishnu). The festival is held on the Raas Purnima (the full moon night of the Hindu month of Kartik) when Lord Krishna is said to have danced with his lover (spiritually, his devotee) Radha and her friends (also devotees). On that night, each of the women saw Lord Krishna dancing with her. The spiritual significance is too deep to discuss here; neither am I qualified to explain it.
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| Carvings on the facade of Shymarai temple |
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| Carvings on the facade of Shyamrai temple |
Commissioned in 1600 by the Malla ruler Hambir Malla Dev (1565–1620), Rasmancha was the platform where all the Radha-Krishna idols of Bishnupur would be brought (until 1932) to be worshipped on the Raas festival. Surrounded by a manicured garden, Rasmancha is one of the best maintained of the Bishnupur terracotta structures.
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| A dilapidated temple near the Jorbangla complex |
Before we go on, I believe it’s important to give a brief history of the Malla kings of Bankura who ruled over the region for more than 1,000 years had the temples built (source: Wikipedia). The word ‘Malla’ literally means ‘wrestler’ and the dynasty got its name from the fact that its founder, Adi Malla (meaning first Malla), was a renowned wrestler.
There is an interesting legend associated with Adi Malla. Sometime in the 7th century, a royal prince from northern India was on a pilgrimage to Puri with his pregnant wife. In a village called Laugram, presumably close to the area of present Bishnupur, he left his wife in the care of a Brahmin because she was not in a state to go on. She soon gave birth to a son, who started growing up in the care of the Brahmin.
But from a young age, he started showing signs of his warrior background and very soon, there was no wrestler in the vicinity who could equal him. Impressed with him, the local ruler of Padampur granted him several villages around Laugram and thus, Adi Malla became a chieftain.
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| Jorbangla temple |
His son Jay Malla later captured the power centre of Padampur by defeating its ruler, and shifted his capital to Bishnupur. Interestingly, the village of Maliara, where my mother’s ancestral house is situated (read posts here), took its name from the Malla rulers of Bishnupur. The word is a combination of the two words ‘Malla’ and ‘ara’. Probably ‘ara’ means ‘akhra’ or wrestling pit. It probably housed one of the wrestling pits of the Malla rulers.
The Malla rule started declining by the first half of the 18th century. They left behind their unique creations—the terracotta temples they fondly built in their capital.
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| Carvings on the facade of Jorbangla temple |
A unique—and quite fearsome—structure lies between the Jorbangla complex and Rasmancha. It is the Gumghar. It’s a plain edifice, square at the base and narrowing a bit at the top. Apparently, the Malla rulers used to hold their enemies prisoners in this building. ‘Goom’ means to vanish or to make someone disappear; ‘ghar’ means room. So, the meaning is quite apparent.
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| Carvings on the facade of Jorbangla temple |
Nearly opposite Gumghar is the Shyamrai temple. Built by Malla king Raghunath Singh (1626–1656) in 1643, it is a ‘pancharatna’-type temple. Pancharatna literally means ‘five gems’ (pancha=five, ratna=gem). In the case of Bishnupur temples, the word ‘ratna’ signifies ‘sikharas’ or pinnacles. The temple has five pinnacles on a curved roof typical to Bengal.
Depicting scenes from Hindu mythology, dancers and musicians, floral motifs and geometrical patterns, the intricate terracotta carvings on the façade of the temple are simply jaw-dropping.
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| Carvings on the facade of Jorbangla temple |
The Jorbangla temple complex is about 200 metres from the Shyamrai temple. This complex houses three other temples. The Jorbangla temple, also known as the Kestarai temple, was also built during the reign of Raghunath Singh Malla, in 1655. Like the Rasmancha, this is also an iconic structure of Bishnupur.
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| Carvings on the facade of Jorbangla temple |
The Jorbangla is unique because of its shape. It looks like a pair of huts attached together, like Siamese twins. Hence the popular name Jorbangla (‘jor’ means ‘joined’). The typical Bengal-style sloping roofs are joined by a square-ish structure at the centre with a pinnacle on top.
Like the Shyamrai temple, the Jorbangla temple is adorned with exquisite carvings on the façade. Again, the topics are very similar, but the Jorbangla carvings seem to have more variety.
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The temple closest to Jorbangla is the Radhashyam temple. Built more than 100 years after Jorbangla, in 1758 by Chaitanya Singh (1748–1801), is also an ‘ekratna’ (one pinnacle) temple. The temple is marked by a gateway, which the other temples do not have. Though this laterite temple, too, has carvings, they are nowhere close to the quality of Jorbangla or Shyamrai temple. Radhashyam temple, however, still houses deities and regular prayers are held in it.
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| The Radhashyam temple |
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| The gateway of Radhashyam temple |
Around 50 metres from Radhashyam temple is the Lalji temple, another ekratna temple built of laterite. Malla king Bir Singha II had it built in 1658. It has a pretty high boundary wall and was not open to tourists when we went.
About 200 metres from the Lalji temple is the Bara Pathar Darja (Big Stone Gateway). Built of laterite blocks, this arched gateway was the northern entrance to the ancient fort of Bishnupur. Malla king Birsingha (1656–1682) had it built sometime during his reign.
A few paces away is the Chhota Pathar Darja (Small Stone Gateway), also built during the reign of Birsingha.
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| A worshipper at Radhashyam temple. Regular puja is done in this temple |
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| The Lalji temple |
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| The Bara Pathar Darja |
The ruins of the old fort are not very far away. However, we had got a little late and so, had to skip it. There are several more terracotta temples in Bishnupur and these are situated in only one corner of the town. We also missed a very significant temple, that of Madanmohan, the tutelary deity of the Mallas. If you are in Bishnupur, do not miss it.
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| The Chhota Pathar Darja |
We visited two more attractions on the way—the Dalmadal cannon and the temple of Chhinnamasta, a form of Goddess Kali. Built of wrought iron, the Dalmadal cannon is 3.8m in length, with a muzzle of 29.2cm in diameter. It was apparently used in a war against the Maratha raiders, who were partly responsible for the gradual downfall of the Malla rulers in the 18th century.
The Chhinnamasta temple is right next to the cannon. The temple is not very old and may not appeal to you unless you are a devout Hindu. There are several handicraft shops right opposite the temple. You can buy terracotta souvenirs like the famous horse of Bankura or other items. But the prices are a bit on the higher side since they are primarily meant for tourists.
The Bishnupur lodge of the West Bengal government tourism department is a very good place to stay overnight. We had a late lunch there before leaving for Kolkata.
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| The Bara Pathar Darja |
How to reach: By road or train from Kolkata (3.5–4 hours). There are several trains like the Rupashi Bangla Express and the Aranyak Express to take you to Bishnupur.
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| Dalmadal cannon |
Where to stay: The Bishnupur Tourist Lodge of the West Bengal government.
What to eat: Traditional Bengali fare at the lodge.
What to see: Terracotta structures built by the Malla kings of Bengal. Some significant attractions are Rasmancha, Shyamrai temple, Jorbangla temple, Radhashyam temple, Lalji temple, Bara Pathar Darja, Chhota Pathar Darja, ruins of Bishnupur fort, Dalmadal cannon, Chhinnamasta temple, Madanmohan temple, Nandalal temple, Kalachand temple, Radhavinod temple, Madangopal temple, Radha Madhab temple, Radha Govinda temple, etc.
What to buy: Terracotta figurines, especially the famous Bankura horse.