I have spent 7 posts writing about all that is beautiful and grand in China. This post is about a few things that seemed troublesome (in varying degrees) to me as a tourist or otherwise. These are totally my personal experiences and other visitors may have had dissimilar ones.
1. Because it’s easier to cross the Great Wall of China than to cross the Great Language Barrier
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| Chinatown in Shanghai |
This is undoubtedly the mother of all problems of travelling in China. In the big cities like Beijing and Shanghai, you can expect the hotel staff to speak and follow English. But venture a bit into the provinces and the language barrier stands in your way like the Great Wall of China.
Not that it’s a crime to not know an alien language, but unfortunately when we talk of international tourism, knowing a little English helps—even if only the basics. China is in the process of training the younger generation in English, and the tour guides speak it well enough. But travelling through China on your own could be tough because not only do the people speak only their own dialect, even the signboards and instructions on several machines of public use are written in Chinese.
I have already given an account of some hilarious experiences in my post Shanghai Nights. Here’s another that happened at the hotel in Wutai. The doorbell wasn’t working and though we were staying there for only a night, I thought I should let the staff know about it (I thought if they knew the doorbell should have been repaired).
Not that it’s a crime to not know an alien language, but unfortunately when we talk of international tourism, knowing a little English helps—even if only the basics. China is in the process of training the younger generation in English, and the tour guides speak it well enough. But travelling through China on your own could be tough because not only do the people speak only their own dialect, even the signboards and instructions on several machines of public use are written in Chinese.
I have already given an account of some hilarious experiences in my post Shanghai Nights. Here’s another that happened at the hotel in Wutai. The doorbell wasn’t working and though we were staying there for only a night, I thought I should let the staff know about it (I thought if they knew the doorbell should have been repaired).
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| At Pingyao Ancient City |
The receptionist seemed to have no idea what I was talking about. She called a staff member and sent her with me. The very sweet-looking girl did not know a word of English, but as always, I trusted my abilities in sign language. I held my door open, rang the bell and gestured with my hand that nothing could be heard. I thought that was good enough for her to understand what I wanted to say.But to my utter surprise, she stared at me blankly. I gestured to her again and again and all that happened was that she got all red and hot and bothered. Finally, she spotted another hotel guest—a young Chinese girl—leaving her room, and ran towards her. After a few quick words, she dragged the girl towards me. Both looked scared.I asked the girl first if she spoke English. “A little,” she smiled nervously. “Tell her the doorbell’s not working. Can they do something about it?” I said patiently. More quick exchange of words and the girl said, “She says it’s not working.” I felt like banging my head against the wall then (or maybe theirs).
But still I kept my calm and said, “Right, can they do something about it?” More quick words and the reply comes, “She says don’t use it.”
“Great. Thank you,” was all I could tell her, not trusting myself any longer to not kill both of them at once. I did not even bother to point out that I would not have any reason to ring my own doorbell; other people would. And they would not know it was out of order and that would create confusion—as had already happened. But telling them all that would have led to another 30 minutes of confusion. So I just gave up.
Comical as this experience was, in certain situations things may not seem so funny. So, before going to China, either learn Chinese or hire a Chinese guide. Keep a translator app ready on your smartphone, but when reading signboards or instructions or labels on products, be prepared to trust only your instinct.
And don’t dare tell the hotel staff the doorbell’s not working.
There were a few stalls selling souvenirs like magnets and key rings outside the temple. I wanted to buy some magnets at a stall where a big team from Mongolia—also invited to the trade fair like us—was also buying things. I chose a few magnets and the shopkeeper woman put them in a plastic pouch. I gave her a 100-yuan note and waited for the change. The Mongolian team had already left by then.
But still I kept my calm and said, “Right, can they do something about it?” More quick words and the reply comes, “She says don’t use it.”
“Great. Thank you,” was all I could tell her, not trusting myself any longer to not kill both of them at once. I did not even bother to point out that I would not have any reason to ring my own doorbell; other people would. And they would not know it was out of order and that would create confusion—as had already happened. But telling them all that would have led to another 30 minutes of confusion. So I just gave up.
Comical as this experience was, in certain situations things may not seem so funny. So, before going to China, either learn Chinese or hire a Chinese guide. Keep a translator app ready on your smartphone, but when reading signboards or instructions or labels on products, be prepared to trust only your instinct.
And don’t dare tell the hotel staff the doorbell’s not working.
2. Because I don’t have a liking for unscrupulous traders
When buying things in China, be prepared to bargain hard, as I have already said in a few posts. But in some places, avoid buying things altogether. I learnt it the hard way at the Hanging Temple.There were a few stalls selling souvenirs like magnets and key rings outside the temple. I wanted to buy some magnets at a stall where a big team from Mongolia—also invited to the trade fair like us—was also buying things. I chose a few magnets and the shopkeeper woman put them in a plastic pouch. I gave her a 100-yuan note and waited for the change. The Mongolian team had already left by then.
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| Xuankong Hanging Temple |
She even gave me the change and as I asked her for the pouch, she started fumbling about in her pockets. Then, she gestured for me to hand her the change back. Clueless, I gave her the money. Then she started shooing me away. I was at my wit’s end. Two or three more shopkeepers had gathered around us by then and the great language barrier blocked our way as usual.
I called our tour guide, who spoke to her and asked me, “Are you sure you gave her the money?” That was it. I lost my cool completely. After a very heated exchange, when I threatened the guide that I wouldn’t budge before I got my money back, the 100-yuan note came out of the woman’s pocket. But only after the guide threatened to make some calls.
I was a state guest in China. We were a huge team, had Chinese officials with us and a Chinese guide. But I could have been on my own. I don’t think the note would have come out of her pocket then.
I called our tour guide, who spoke to her and asked me, “Are you sure you gave her the money?” That was it. I lost my cool completely. After a very heated exchange, when I threatened the guide that I wouldn’t budge before I got my money back, the 100-yuan note came out of the woman’s pocket. But only after the guide threatened to make some calls.
I was a state guest in China. We were a huge team, had Chinese officials with us and a Chinese guide. But I could have been on my own. I don’t think the note would have come out of her pocket then.
3. Because I don’t want rude behaviour from my hosts
The Chinese are tough taskmasters, but to get their work done or have their way, they can come down to being downright rude (at least in my definition that’s what it’s called). |
| This is not in the list, but I would not like to visit a country which supports sale of tiger skins. Photo taken at Pingyao Ancient City |
At the Hanging Temple fiasco, too, the guide doubted my sanity, and/or my integrity, first instead of doubting the shopkeeper’s scruples by asking me if I was “sure” I had given her the money. Apparently I hadn’t and was demanding a 100-yuan note that did not belong to me. Though he apologized later and was generally quite courteous, some things leave a bitter taste in the mouth.
And, these are lessons to be learnt.
When I visited a mall in Datong with two of my colleagues, that’s precisely what greeted us—bleary-eyed mall attendants who would let off a yawn every now and then. As it is, we three seemed to be the only visitors in the entire mall. Why keep the mall open at all then?
After completing our work in Pingyao Ancient Cityaround 7.30 pm, we found all the shops shut and the road deserted. And it’s a popular tourist spot. It denied me a chance to shop in the place that could have probably offered the best shopping experience in my entire trip.
First I thought only Shanghai was expensive. But the Datong mall flaunted equally eye-popping price tags. And I’m not talking about any world-class brand. Most were local brands with quite ordinary products.
I have an idea of the price tags even in US shopping malls. Even with my modest means, I could afford to buy quite a lot—clothes, cosmetics, accessories... They were expensive by Indian standards, but certainly within reach.
Prices at the local stalls in China are quite reasonable, especially if you have mastered the art of haggling. What was strange was the enormous gap between the prices at the high-end and the local shops. In India, for instance, what is sold for Rs 10 at a local stall may be sold for Rs 20 in a shopping mall. But in China, what is sold at a local stall for 10 yuan will have a 100-yuan price tag in a mall.
But shopping in the local stores, especially for clothes, can be extremely disappointing. Life came full circle for me when I realized that I would not fit into even the ‘XXL’ of China while I had fitted into the ‘Petite Small’ in the US. In India, it’s usually the ‘M’. I saw hardly any obesity in China. And you may get a serious inferiority complex if you don’t tone down to size zero before a China trip. I am too lazy for that.
4. Because I can’t have dinner at 6pm and go to bed at 7.30
The Chinese go to bed when the evening just about begins for most Indians. Okay, there are cultural differences and I am actually quite keen on adopting the local way of life when I visit a place. But who wants to see yawning attendants at a mall at 7.30 pm? |
| Don't plan a late-evening programme in China |
After completing our work in Pingyao Ancient Cityaround 7.30 pm, we found all the shops shut and the road deserted. And it’s a popular tourist spot. It denied me a chance to shop in the place that could have probably offered the best shopping experience in my entire trip.
5. Because I want some souvenirs without burning a huge hole in my pocket
A plain hoodie for 800 yuan (Rs 8,000/$125). That’s right. China means cheap stuff, right? Wrong. You will get comparatively inexpensive stuff only in the roadside stalls and local markets. Go to a shopping mall or a fancy store and a take a look at the price tags. It’s enough to give you a cardiac arrest.First I thought only Shanghai was expensive. But the Datong mall flaunted equally eye-popping price tags. And I’m not talking about any world-class brand. Most were local brands with quite ordinary products.
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| The price tags may make you want to find refuge in those (mock) coffins! Photo taken at a shopping mall in Shanghai |
Prices at the local stalls in China are quite reasonable, especially if you have mastered the art of haggling. What was strange was the enormous gap between the prices at the high-end and the local shops. In India, for instance, what is sold for Rs 10 at a local stall may be sold for Rs 20 in a shopping mall. But in China, what is sold at a local stall for 10 yuan will have a 100-yuan price tag in a mall.
But shopping in the local stores, especially for clothes, can be extremely disappointing. Life came full circle for me when I realized that I would not fit into even the ‘XXL’ of China while I had fitted into the ‘Petite Small’ in the US. In India, it’s usually the ‘M’. I saw hardly any obesity in China. And you may get a serious inferiority complex if you don’t tone down to size zero before a China trip. I am too lazy for that.