I got effectively only two days for sightseeing in Srinagar — an afternoon, an entire day and a morning. So it was one hectic affair and I missed some spots like Verinag, which I had wanted to visit. But I covered most of the places that were on my wish list and some more suggested by my driver. I have already shared a post on the Mughal Gardens. In this post, I will share my experiences at three of the other six places that I visited. The rest will come in the next post.
Jama Masjid/Jamia Masjid
This 600-year-old mosque is the oldest and grandest in Srinagar, the imposing brick structure lying snug in the middle of Srinagar Old City.
There are several extended awnings outside for people to offer prayers. Especially on Fridays and Eid, even the massive mosque, with its capacity of 33,333 prayer mats, is not enough to accompany everyone. So, many people offer prayers outside, under the awnings. Together, a lakh people are said to offer prayers together under this entire arrangement.
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| The pillars are said to be solid deodar trunks |
My driver Tanveer accompanied me inside. Like all Islamic holy places, visitors are supposed to cover their heads while going inside. I was in a tee and cargos, with a cap on my head. It did not cover my hair. So, under Tanveer’s expert advice, I put a hanky on my hair and put the cap on to keep it in place. He himself went inside with his head happily uncovered.
Right outside the mosque, a man sat with some grey phirans (the loose knee-length top Kahmiri men and women wear over their trousers). He smiled and offered me one, saying, “This will cover your arms.” So, in this immensely bizarre garb, I went inside one of India’s holiest mosques.
Thankfully, there were not too many people inside. Though I was there on a Friday, it was still not time for the prayers.
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| The beautifully carved ceiling |
The massiveness of the structure struck me the moment I was inside the first prayer hall. Even more so the pillars, which, Tanveer said, were solid deodar trunks. The doors were of heavy wood with solid metal bolts. The ceiling was of beautifully carved wood and identical rugs that serve as prayer mats shrouded the ground.
There are four prayer halls surrounding a massive courtyard with a fountain in the middle for ‘wazu’ (ritual ablution). The top of Hari Parvat can be seen from the courtyard. Overall, I had a nice experience and I’d suggest that tourists don’t give it a miss.
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| The central courtyard |
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Shankaracharya Temple
This Shiva temple can truly be called the crown of Srinagar — simply because it rests on a hilltop 1,000 feet above the city, offering a breathtaking view from the top. The saddest part? You are not allowed to take your camera or cellphone and have to either leave these wherever you have put up or in the care of your driver.
There are, however, viewpoints on the way, from where you can take your shots. But the best view comes from the hilltop.
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| Shankaracharya Hill and the temple (circled) seen from my houseboat. Tourists are not allowed to carry cameras and cellphones to the temple |
I had heard from my father and uncle that they had climbed all the way up to the temple from Srinagar itself, not up any stairs but the bare side of the hill. I don’t know if that can be done any longer. As I said, I was short of time, so had to go in the car to the base of the final flight of some 250 steps that lead to the temple.
The 8km road that leads to the temple is guarded at the entrance by the CRPF and no car is allowed to pass after 5pm. The drive is absolutely stunning, passing through some lush greenery. You have to get off the car at the base of the stairs, which is also guarded by CRPF and visitors have to undergo a security check.
Then starts an arduous climb. I was on way to a 6-day Himalayan trek, so this was good workout for me. But it’s definitely not for weak knees and/or lungs. It’s beautiful at the top, with a courtyard, a tank in the middle, trees all around, and clean seats in the open for visitors to rest.
Inside, the temple looks very much like a lot of other Hindu temples. The Shivling rests in the middle and devotees can circumambulate it. Prasad (ritual offering to the god that is given to devotees as sanctified food) is given to all who ask for it. It’s not very spacious and you can’t expect to be inside for too long in peak tourist season.
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| Srinagar city seen from a viewpoint on way to Shankaracharya temple |
The Jyoteshwar temple (another name for the shrine), though not a very grand structure, has a very grand history involving Hindus, Buddhists, Persians and Jews. Though the temple is named after the Adi Shankaracharya (788-820), who was largely responsible for the resurgence of Hinduism in India after a long Buddhist era, the temple predates him by at least a millennium, though no one seems to know for sure when exactly it was built and by whom.
I will try to present a short account of the various theories about the origin of the temple though these are results of my Internet research and I can’t guarantee that these are all correct. In fact, it’s highly likely they aren’t. But they can give a basic idea about the temple’s incredible past.
A brief history of Shankaracharya temple
Some give to credit for the temple to a King Sandiman (could be a version of Suleiman or Solomon) who is supposed to have ruled over Kashmir from 2629-2564BC. Another record — supposedly supported by the great scholars Kalhana and Abul Fazl — says King Gopaditya (426-365BC) had it built, to be subsequently renovated by various rulers. The current structure is definitely not 2,000 years old.
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| Dal Lake seen from another viewpoint on way to Shankaracharya temple |
Some apparently also claim it was originally a Buddhist shrine that Shankaracharya changed into a Hindu temple. Whatever the reason, the site is revered by Hindus and Buddhists alike. The latter apparently call the hill ‘Pas Pahar’.
The hill has supposedly been known by several names through the years, though now it’s popularly called the Shankaracharya Hill, after the temple. From Gopaditya, the hill was said to have been named Gopadri, changed from the original Jetha Larak.
Jews and Persians apparently revered it as the Bagh-e-Suleiman (Garden of Suleiman) or the Takht-e-Suleiman (Seat of Suleiman). And, this is what it was called even until the mid-19thcentury. There apparently used to be Persian inscriptions on the walls of the temple.
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Badam Vaer (Almond Garden)
This beautiful garden is located a bit far from Dal Lake and not frequented by too many tourists, who largely stick to the Mughal Gardens. The plaque inside says it was Mughal emperor Akbar who originally walled off this plot at the foothills of Hari Parvat in 1597 and named the 3.5-mile-long, 28-foot-high, 13-foot-wide stone wall Faseel-e-Akbari. Inside was the small city of Naagar Nagar.
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| Almond tree in Badam Vaer |
After the fall of the Mughal Empire, the city fell into ruins. In 1876, Dogra king Ranbir Singh turned the plot into an almond garden and it became the hub of festivals and fairs before once again losing its charm, especially during the turbulent phase of Kashmir. In 2007, it was revived yet again by the J&K Bank and now it’s meant once more for cultural programmes and fests.
There is an amphitheatre at one end of the garden where 4.30pm onwards every Sunday, musical programmes sponsored by the bank are held to “celebrate the richness” of Kashmiri culture.
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| The amphitheatre where musical programmes are held every Sunday |
In Kashmir, the almond blossom is said to herald spring, and that is the time the garden looks its best and is mostly visited. When I went in end-July, the blossoms and almonds were long gone, but the garden looked pretty nevertheless. Like the Mughal Gardens, its also has rows of roses planted on either side of the central pathway.
There are brick arches at regular intervals on the pathway, a tank in the garden, a bridge and a small podium surrounded by brick pillars. Overall, a very pretty place, but local youths can sometimes be seen doing drugs here, taking advantage of its isolation. They were there when I went. “Effects of bad tourists,” Tanveer said, shaking his head.
All the gardens in Srinagar have arrangements for your photos to be taken in Kashmiri clothes. It’s outrageously expensive at the Mughal Gradens where the dress-wallahs insist on taking the photo on their own cameras and selling it for a premium. I had asked them if I could take it on my own camera and they had refused. So I had refused their offer flatly as well.
At Badam Vaer, I was allowed to get clicked on my own camera and the dress-wallah charged reasonably. So, if you have any plans to get yourself clicked in Kashmiri clothes, do it here.
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| The shrine of Sufi saint Makhdoom Sahib |
On the way to Badam Vaer, you can also visit the shrine of Sufi mystic Makhdoom Sahib. I couldn’t though, owing to shortage of time. Maybe I’ll do it some other time.
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To read the next part of this post, covering Kheer Bhawani Temple, Manasbal Lake and Hazratbal shrine, click here
Also read my other posts on Srinagar:
Kahwa, with a dash of Kashmiriyat, on a 'hidden' Dal Lake
Life in Srinagar
The Mughal Gardens
Also read my other posts on Srinagar:
Kahwa, with a dash of Kashmiriyat, on a 'hidden' Dal Lake
Life in Srinagar
The Mughal Gardens